Written by Christie Crawford
Clarksville, TN – You may have sipped Chardonnay, but have you savored a glass of Assyrtiko or Grillo?
As fall beckons slowly, with shadowed afternoons and cool sunset colors, one is reminded of a Mediterranean evening meal at a taverna or trattoria. None would be complete without a glass of white wine to usher in the evening.
The Mediterranean countries have always revered wine from thousands of years of cultivation and the worship of wine gods Dionysus in Greece and Bacchus in Italy. Festivals and art forms have and still do celebrate the grape and its importance to agriculture and society in this region.
Most of the fanfare has been given to the northern regions of Spain, France, and Northern Italy, particularly in wine wine production. But some new kids on the block are receiving some accolades: their southern cousins, Greece and Sicily.
On a two-month adventure through Europe last fall, I decided to see what the hype was all about and was not disappointed. My wine experience ranged from winery tours.
Recommendations in local restaurants and bottle shops, and a little research beforehand. Winery tours in these areas are understated and range in price. Because wineries are small-scale, most require an appointment in advance.
My first leg was to mainland Greece and the island of Santorini. The timing was perfect as it was “crush” time: the time of harvesting or crushing grapes.
Mainland Greece
What makes Greece unique is its abundance of indigenous grapes with regional varieties. Mainland Greece is well suited for wine production as 80% of the terrain is mountainous with cool nightly breezes. Small family wineries prevail and dot the rolling hills, often paired with olive orchards. Little mechanical harvesting is done.
The prime producing area is centrally located in the fertile Nemea region, nicknamed the “Bordeaux region of Southeastern Europe.” Grapes have been harvested since the 6th millennium BC during the Mycenaean reign, and the vineyards back up to ancient Myceneae, described in Homer’s “Iliad“ and “Odyssey.” Interestingly enough, one winemaker I visited was experimenting with aging wine not in traditional oak barrels but in clay amphoras.
Santorini
Besides the spectacular caldera views, cobalt seascape, and white-washed architecture, Santorini is unique in wine appreciation. The intense heat, volcanic soil, high winds, and overall lack of water create a unique taste chemistry.
Grapes are planted in the kouleres method, which trains the vines to create a wreath-like protective basket with the grapes underneath.
The Assyrtiko grape, which dates back to 3,000 years ago, is the prevalent one grown here.
White Wine Recommendations To Try In Greece
Moschofilero – (mos-coh-FEE-ler-oh) The color alone is enticing with its pale, almost salmon color. The Greek translation means “fragrant leaf,” and its floral aroma alone gives it a special charm. Crisp, citrusy with a hint of melon. Many rose wines and sparkling wines are made from this varietal. Similar to Viognier. Perfect with seafood, spicy food, light meats, and cheese.
Assyritiko – (A-SEER-tee-ko) The darling of Santorini, the straw-colored wine is strangely salty with a hint of peach and a slight mineral aftertaste. Perfect with seafood, light meat, and cheese. Similar to Sauvignon Blanc. You may be lucky enough to find the barrel-aged Nychteri, which is the same grape left to over-mature on the vines. This one has a bit of additional flavor of fig.
My second to last leg of the trip involved ferrying from Southern Italy to Sicily to visit all regions of the island. Sicily’s shift to fine winemaking burst on the scene in 2011 when the Sicilia DOC (Controlled Designation of Origin) was created.
Sicily
A unique island and culture, Sicily has been in the wine business since the time of the Phoenicians and is Italy’s third-largest wine-producing area. At one time, Sicily had two of the three largest Greek cities in the world, and it was no coincidence that the Greco grape was introduced.
64% of all wine planted is white wine, and the wine regions here vary from the slopes of Mount Etna to the coastal areas of Trapani. Most vineyards are dry-farmed, which, simply said, means no irrigation is added. Indigenous grape varieties thrive here, and 30% of all farms are organic.
White Wine Recommendations To Try In Sicily
Grillo – (Gree-yo), a coastal-grown grape, is also known as Riddu or Rossese bianco and is used in the blend of Marsala wine. Straw yellow color with a floral, almost minty aroma and medium acidity with pear and lemon notes. Perfect with cheese, fish, white meat, and pasta. Similar to Pinot Grigio.
Nero D’Avolo – (Nay-ro Dah-voh-la), a uniquely Sicilian red grape grown on the slopes of Mt. Etna, this wine is gently pressed after harvest, leaving an almost clear water-like silver color with a pear and tropical fruit flavor. Similar to Sauvignon Blanc and can be paired with seafood or other light foods.
Understandably, not everyone can visit these exceptional countries, and if you’re trying to purchase them here in the US, there is limited availability to boot. Most producers sell 80% of their product in the country, with an additional 15% going to various regions throughout Europe, leaving little to market to America.
Make sure you choose Greek wines with a PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) or DOC in Sicily. After a quick perusal of wine stores within Middle Tennessee, the only store within a radius selling both Sicilian and Greek wines was Cork Dorks, with two locations in mid-town Nashville and Green Hills.
Otherwise, your option is to order from numerous online wine retailers such as www.totalwine.com with pick-up at its Brentwood location.
